Monday, February 25, 2008

Perfume & Cologne Fragrance Information

This blog was created to give the fragrance lover some hopefully useful information on what designer fragrances are and where they come from.
Perfume and Cologne have always been involved in a tremendous market. Since the early Egyptians used perfume balms for religious ceremonies and love making preparations, perfume and cologne fragrances have become a standard in our ever changing economy. Today the perfume market is a 10 billion dollar industry with no signs of slowing down. With celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears, Paris Hilton, and Niki Tayor just to name a few-the perfume market is stronger than ever. With every smell, scent, aroma, spice, and sniff the manufactures can come up with....they're headlining big stars to promote. Why not? Everyone loves perfume and cologne. Every bottle has its own beautiful style and unique shape. We wear it whenever we go out and so do millions of other people to stimulate each and every occasion.
The late 19th century was the first real era of perfume as we know it when new scents were created because of advances in organic chemistry knowledge. Synthetic perfume products were used in place of certain hard to find or expensive ingredients. At the same time a similar chemical knowledge development happened in textile printing dyes.Grasse in Provence, France became a centre for flower and herb growing for the perfume industry. The men who treated leathers in the same area found the smells so bad they perfumed themselves and the leathers. They were knowledgeable about making the botanical essences and were the early perfume noses. But it was only in the C20th that scents and designer perfumes were really mass produced. Before that, the few trade names that existed were Coty and Yardley who made fairly light scents with familiar smells.
Womens Perfume is the ultimate sensory experience, calling up emotions and forgotten memories. And so, many of us spend a small fortune on exotic and extraordinary fragrances, yet we often don't know how to use them properly. Follow these suggestions and discover new ideas for dousing yourself in mood-boosting aromas, the best ways to wear your scent and how to give it staying power.
Fragrance 101
Classic French fragrances are created by combining three layers of scent, called notes. These different notes can be synthetically created in a lab or extracted from natural sources like flowers or fruits. The top note, which contains the most volatile oils, lasts the least amount of time; the middle note lasts a bit longer and forms the heart of a scent; and the base note lasts around 24 hours. In the last decade, some fragrances have been formulated to change relatively little with wear. What you smell when you spritz is more or less what you get several hours later. However, with most fragrances, you'll smell the top note first, then the scent will change and you'll detect the middle note a few hours later. There are five main types of fragrance.

Perfume (also known as extract or extrait), is the purest, smoothest and roundest of all the concentrations of fragrance and the most expensive by far. It contains 20 to 40 per cent of fragrance oils held in alcohol, a much higher concentration than in other types of fragrance. Fifty per cent of the fragrance is formulated with the long-lasting base notes. Perfume is generally dabbed onto the skin rather than sprayed on.

Eau de parfum is the most popular kind of fragrance and contains seven to 14 per cent fragrance oils. Around 70 per cent of an eau de parfum is lost after several hours but that 30 per cent will remain 24 hours later. If you want a scent that will last and isn't too expensive, buy this kind of formulation. Apply your scent of choice to the places where the skin is the warmest - the wrists, collarbone, between the breasts, in the crook of the elbows, behind your knees, on your inner thighs, and around the ankles.

Eau de toilette contains one to three per cent fragrance oils, of which 80 per cent will evaporate within three hours. 'Many women buy eau de toilette expecting it to last all day, but eau de toilette (or toilet water, as it's historically known) was originally created to be splashed all over the body to refresh and wake you up instantly,' says Roja Dove, a perfume expert. Dove advises against spraying eau de toilette on your pulse points - instead he suggests spritzing some onto your hairbrush and running the brush through your hair for a more lasting effect.
Eau de cologne, the first type of commonly used fragrance that was popularised by Napoleon, is rarely made any more and doesn't have the same structure as classic French perfume. However, eau fraiche, which was created by Christian Dior with its classic men's scent Eau Sauvage, is similar to an eau de cologne but lasts like a very concentrated eau de toilette. Contemporary eau fraiche scents may have the words 'O de' in front of the name, for example 'O de Lancôme'.

Scented body creams contain around eight per cent aromatic oils, and lotions have three to five per cent. Because of their thick cream or lotion base, the scent will linger all over in its more concentrated form for several hours and can still be smelled faintly on the body up to 24 hours later.
"Perfumes are increasingly used in an ever wider variety of fields, including perfumes proper, cosmetic products, hygenic products, discount fragrances, drugs, detergents and other household products, plastics, industrial greases, oils and solvents, foods, etc. Their composition is usually complex - it involves numerous natural and synthetic sweet-smelling constituents, more than 5,000 of which are known. Perfumes may produce toxic and more often allergic respiratory disorders (asthma), as well as neurological and cutaneous disorders." from the French toxicology journal, Ann Dermatol Vernereol, Vol 113, ISS 1, 1986, P.31-41

84% of these ingredients have never been tested for human toxicity, or have been tested only minimally. N. Ashford, Phd and C. Miller, M.D. Chemcial Exposures: Low Levels and High Stakes 1991, p. 61

In 1986 the National Academy of Sciences targeted discount fragrances as one of the six categories of chemicals that should be given high priority for neurotoxicity testing. The other groups include insecticides, heavy metals, solvents, food additives and certain air pollutants. The report states that 95% of chemicals used in fragrances are synthetic compounds derived from petroleum. They include benzene derivatives, aldehydes, and many other known toxics and sensitizers - capable of causing cancer, birth defects, central nervous system disorders and allergic reactions. "Neurotoxins: At Home and the Workplace" (Report by the Committee on Science and Technology. U.S. House of Representatives, Sept, 16, 1986) [Report 99-827]

A few chemicals found in fragrances known to be neurotoxic: hexachlorophene; acetyl-ethyl-tetramethyl-tetralin; zinc-pyridinethione; 2,4,dinitro-3-methyl-6-tert-butylanisole; 1-Butanol; 2-butanol; tert-Butanol; Isobutanol; t-Butyl Toluene. Neurotoxic properties of chemicals found in fragrances have caused testicular atrophy in lab animals as well as myelin disease. The myelin sheath protects the nerves and does not regenerate. (Compiled from TOXLINE database of fragrances industry and medical journals.)

Multiple Sclerosis, Parkinson's, Lupus, and Alzheimer's are all neurological disorders. Dyslexia is a neurological dysfunction. Could any of these neurological dysfunctions be caused by exposure to neurotoxic chemicals? Symptoms are often identical to chemical hypersensitivity. Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS) is also a neurological dysfunction. Could fragrant fabric softeners or detergents emitting neurotoxic chemicals cause the neurological breakdown?

A few chemicals found in fragrances known to cause cancer and birth defects: methylene chloride; toluene; methyl ethyl ketone; methyl isobutyl ketone; tert Butyl; sec Butyl; benzyl chloride. (Compiled by comparing a list of 120 fragrance chemicals from the EPA obtained through the Freedom of Information Act and California's Prop 65 List of Chemicals).

A few chemicals found in womens fragrances and mens cologne designated as hazardous waste disposal chemicals: methylene chloride; toluene; meythl ethyl ketone; methyl isobutyl ketone; ethanol; benzal chloride. These chemicals are listed in the EPA's Code 40 of Federal Regulations, Ch 1, Section 261.33.

884 toxic substances were identified in a list (partial) of 2,983 chemicals used in the fragrance industry: "Many of these substances are capable of causing cancer, birth defects, central nervous system disorders, breathing and allergic reactions and Multiple Chemical Sensitivities." (National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health report.)
Let's look at a brief description of some of the new perfumes or discount cologne products of the past few years. We have more knowledge of some than others, so do write and tell us at the email address below if you are very familiar with a particular new perfume and why it appeals so much. Write also if there is a special luxury perfume less well known that you want to share with others. A few from the previous decade are included because of their dominance in world sales now, but it is impossible to list every perfume and which might just happen to your favourite. Prices where given, are approximate to give you an idea of possible cost in December 2003 and will more than likely vary with supplier. Also we have tried to give an idea of the starting prices of these perfumes where practical.


Ardenbeauty by Elizabeth Arden (floral green) - A rich elegant floral with green notes, Rubrum lily, golden sweet orchid, a twist of lemon, on a base of Indian sandalwood, amber and musk. $32.50 for 50ml EDP. Launched 2002.


Emporio Armani Night for Her by Armani - A seriously seductive, mysterious voluptuous and sensual perfume with a woody, floral and amber base hinting at peonies, lily of the valley, blackcurrant, cranberry amid sandalwood, patchouli and myrrh. Ideal for winter. $30 for 50ml EDP.


Sensi by Georgio Armani (floriental) - A refined, stylish perfume that encapsulates Armani fashion with woody, floral and oriental notes of Kaffir lime leaves, barley, Palisander woods, vanilla and delicate flowers mimosa, jasmine. $39 for 50ml EDP. Launched 2002.


Boss Intense by Boss (oriental) - A sensual mesmerising fragrance of amber base notes, spice mixed with vanilla, all mingled with vanilla orchid and warm wood notes. $29 for 50ml EDP. Launched 2003.


Initial for Women by Boucheron (floral) - A sweet and romantic refreshing floral with notes of lily of the valley, Turkish rose, cinnamon, patchouli, blackcurrant leaf and vanilla. Launched 2000.


Burberry Brit by Burberry (oriental) - Very reminiscent of all things British, with soft wood, sugared almonds, lime, pear and amber tones. $23 for 30ml EDP. $36 for 50ml EDT.

Gloria by Cacharel (oriental) - A fresh oriental, with notes of Hibiscus, roses, amaretto and vanilla ideal for rock chicks. $18.50 for 50ml EDT.


Chance by Chanel (oriental) - A watery floral with a warm background. $31.50 for 50ml EDT.


Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel (oriental) - A fresh oriental fragrance. $40 for 50ml EDT.


Clinique Happy by Clinique (floral) - Launched 1997, but one of the world's most popular perfumes of now. Full of fruits and flowers with a white floral base including magnolia and red grapefruit and blonde woods making this an upbeat warm scent in a rather dull bottle.


Clinique Simply by Clinique (floral) - A watery floral blend of white flowers with a touch of aniseed and a creamy warmth. $32 for 50ml EDT.


Celine Dion by Coty ( floral) - Ripe fruits with soft florals. $25 for 50ml EDT.


Ghost by Coty - A sweet, flowery, but modern classic perfume. $27 for 50ml EDT.


ISA Bella by Coty (oriental) - Vanilla and balsam with florals create a deep mysterious smell. $27 for 50ml EDT.


Cool Water Woman by Davidoff - An aquatic blend. $21 for 30ml EDT.


Escada Ibiza Hippie by Escada - A blend of amber, pear, freesia and cranberry. Launched 2003.


Dior Addict by Dior (floriental) - Sexy sandalwood based scent with vanilla rose and jasmine and the rare Jamaican flower The Queen of the Night. $39 for 50ml EDP, $23 for 20ml EDP.

Sicily by Dolce and Gabbana (chypre) - A twist on citrus, herbs and blossoms, including honeysuckle, Italian bergamot, jasmine, hibiscus and sandalwood. $30 for 25ml EDP.


Magot by Etro (chypre) - Fruits mixed with blossoms and patchouli combine to give a sensuous perfume once settled. $48 for 100ml EDT.

Celine Pour Femme - A spicy woody fragrance with rich florals. $21.50 for 30ml EDT.


Fendi by Fendi (oriental) - A modern scent of amber, musk and vanilla on soft woods. $40 for 100ml EDT.


Serenity by Ghost - A feminine scent that contains, bergamot, lily of the valley, Peony and Tonka beans. $28 for 50ml. Launched 2003.

Very Irresistible by Givenchy (floral) - This is the world's first floral aromatic scent. Fresh with a heart of rose, combining 5 different roses and star anise with verbena. $27.50 for 30ml EDT.

Hot Couture by Givenchy ( floral) - Sexy and sensual flowery scent with a heart of lily, magnolia and fruity raspberry, amid black pepper overlaid with vetiver, sandalwood and ambergris notes. Launched 2000.


Quel Amour By Annick Goutal - A fabulous new fragrance with the discrete scent of peonies mixed with wild roses and geranium rosa, is enhanced by fruits such as pomegranates, redcurrants, cherries and peaches. $35 for 50ml. Launched 2002.


Gucci eau de Parfum by Gucci - A rich, musky, heady, exotic and erotic, luxurious perfume with orange blossom, thyme, cumin and heliotrope that mellows into an elusive scent. Not for the shy and retiring. $26 for 30ml EDP.


Gucci Rush 2 by Gucci - A gentle luxurious discount perfume for those who prefer the fresh and flowery. Launched 2001.


L'instant by Guerlain (oriental) - The latest offering from the wonderful Guerlain range. A delicious classy oriental scent roundly finished with a powdery feel. $30.50 for 50 ml EDT. $52 for 100ml EDT.


Mahora by Guerlain (floriental)- A heart of frangipani, jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang and neroli overlaid with vanilla, sandalwood and vetiver. This is a serious, sultry memorable exotic fragrance for those who like to make a statement. You will either love it or loathe it. If you like Dior's Poison you will like this. I love Guerlain perfumes, but this is the one I find too obvious and too cloying. Launched in 2000.

Chic by Carolina Herrera - A seamless, fresh, elegant scent blend with Bulgarian roses, orange flower, mandarin, freesia, ambrette, and vanilla. Launched 2002.


Marc Jacobs by Marc Jacobs (floral) - A modern, crisp, clean, feminine perfume based around the mystery of gardenia, musk, cedar and ginger. Launched 2001. Very popular.


Glow by J.Lo (floral aldehyde) - A warm sexy and fresh floral fragrance of jasmine, orris, grapefruit and orange flower, with sandalwood, soft musk and amber. Some may find it too sweet, but my husband always says "you smell lovely" whenever I wear this. $21 for 30 ml EDT. Launched 2002.


Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan - A beautiful floral scent that is refreshing, subtle and feminine. $27 for 30ml EDT. $37 for 50ml EDT.


Flower by Kenzo (floral) - A simple straightforward powdery floral fragrance. It combines poppy, rose, vanilla, violet and hawthorn. $27.50 for 30ml EDP. $38 for 50ml EDP.


Truth by Calvin Klein (green) - A refreshing woody oriental fragrance ideal for casual wear. $34 for 50ml EDP. $21 for 30ml EDP. Launched 2000.


Michael by Michael Kors - A sophisticated much loved scent with woody undertones, freesia and tuberose on the surface.


Attraction by Lancôme (floriental ) - An attractive stylish perfume which is fresh, floral and green to start with, then hints at an amber and vanilla note on iris, syringa and patchouli. $28.50 for 30ml EDP. Very now.


Connexion by Lancôme - An attractive, friendly, happy scent with a warm musky feel. It is like a bouquet of white flowers and includes magnolia, wild roses and hibiscus together with the fruitiness of blackcurrant and blackberries and the lushness of whipped cream, vanilla and patchouli. The lingering smell of this perfume hauntingly reminds me of a long lost favourite perfume of many years ago. $25 for 50ml EDT. Launched 2003.


Miracle by Lancôme - A contemporary feminine white flowers perfume with zesty sharp green notes in a haze of jasmine and magnolia, all underscored by spices and amber. Perfect for casual and daywear. Launched 2001 and hugely popular.


Tresor by Lancôme (floriental) - Re-launched as long ago as 1990 this feminine scent is high on the USA top ten list of best selling scents in this decade. Containing lilac, apricot, amber and musk it is a sharp floriental fragrance. $28 for 30 ml EDP.


Pour Elle by Ted Lapidus (oriental) - Rich blossoms on a cushion of exotic wood and oriental notes. $37 for 50ml EDP.


Beautiful by Estee Lauder (floral) - Launched in the 1990s, but one of the most popular perfumes in the USA top ten. A lovely scent like a bouquet of flowers with citrus woods and spices. $30 for 30ml EDP.


Intuition by Estee Lauder (oriental) - A beautiful soft sensual scent with vanilla, fruits and floral notes that is modern and wearable. $36.50 for 50ml EDP. Launched in 2000, hugely popular and still in the USA top ten perfumes.


Beyond Paradise by Estee Lauder (oriental) - A light, radiant, tropically fresh, simple, but warm and full exotic perfume, using lingering scents of flowers like Natal plum blossoms and crêpe jasmine and moss. Very now. $27.50 for 30ml EDP. $37.50 for 50 ml EDP.


Pleasures Intense by Estee Lauder (floral) - Intensely feminine this is a fresh take on the original Pleasure, but with more intense concentrated Eau de Parfum violet tones and ideal for summer. £48 for 100ml EDP. Launched 2002.


Glamourous by Ralph Lauren - A dress up or down special floral fragrance made from the Casablanca lily, Siam wood and musk. $41 for 50 ml EDP. Launched 2002.


Romance by Ralph Lauren (chypre) - This contains chamomile, freesia, tangerine, ginger, violet and oakmoss and makes a light perfume. $25 for 30 ml EDP. Launched 1999.

Stella by Stella McCartney (floral) - Fresh simple delicate flowers such as roses offset with amber and woods. $37.50 for 50ml EDP.


Kingdom by Alexander McQueen (chypre) - A spicy, bright, sensual and exotic fragrance full of character that turns heads. Contains ginger, vanilla, woods and myrrh. $31 for 30ml EDP.


Enjoy by Patou (floral) - A lively, sensual fruity floral for grown ups. $31 for 30ml EDP.

Malabah by Penhaligon (oriental) - Smells of exotic spices mixed with oranges in a far eastern harbour. $57 for 100ml EDP.


Premier Jour by Nina Ricci (floriental) - A subtle, slightly exotic musky scent with notes hinting at sugared almonds, gardenia, mandarin, and sweet peas and all that is lovely of a long summer's day. Launched 2001.


Absolu by Rochas - A gentle spicy fragrance with sandalwood, cinnamon and a sharp twist of pepper. Soft enough for office wear. Launched 2002.


Aquawoman by Rochas - This is a sharp aquatic scent, a blend of nacre, amber, musk on criste marine. Launched 2002.


Manifesto by Isabella Rossellini - A fresh floral scent launched in 2000. Made from an exotic mix of fruits, soft flowers, spice with under tones of sandalwood, white musk and chestnut.


Extreme by Paul Smith - A sophisticated perfume of mandarin, blackcurrant, freesia and amber. £20 for 30ml EDT. $27 for 50ml EDT. $37 for 100ml EDT.


Kate Spade Parfum - (At present exclusively available at Harrods in UK) - a beautiful new simple sensual fragrance of white flowers, neroli, jasmine with a heart of gardenia.


Anna Sui dolly Girl by Anna Sui (floral) - A flowery, sweet, girly fresh scent, reminiscent of melons and apples, roses, jasmine, and magnolia. $20 for 30ml EDT.


Vera Wang The Fragrance by Vera Wang - The perfect scent for brides. Roses calla lily, gardenia and stephanotis with lotus iris, woods and musk combine to make a classic floral bouquet for the dream day. $48 for 50ml EDP. 2003.
Everyone understands that it is important to smell good when trying to attract the opposite sex. However, do you know which colognes are the most effective? Do you know the few simple tricks you can utilize to bring your "smelling good" up to the next level? If not then you've come to the right place...

Cologne Rotation

Always have a few different colognes, we recommend at least 2-3 which you rotate often. You will become more attractive to women that you are around on a regular basis because they will not be able to predict what you will be smelling like. Predictable is boring, and most women think that their own lives are boring... so in turn they search for a mate who does NOT appear to be living a boring life in order to add some flare to their own. When you smell different just about each day, you will be displaying that you are a spontaneous person... as well as a person with style, and with the right choice of cologne... a person with class also. This is exactly what ANY real player should want the ladies to think of them.

Cologne & Pheromones

Never apply cologne to your clothes, the smell will fade away in less than a few hours, plus your clothing does not contain natural pheromones like your body does... so spraying your shirt would not produce the full effect of the cologne. When you spray cologne on your body in the right spots, pheromones mix together with the cologne to "create" an original smell... YOUR original smell. If you have ever wondered why the same brand of cologne smells different depending on who is wearing it, now you know... it is because each person's body produces slightly different pheromones, and when mixed with cologne produces their own unique "version" of the cologne. For more information on boosting your body's natural pheromone production... click here.

The "Hot" Spots

The best spots to apply cologne are the areas of your body that produce the most body heat. Body heat "activates" the cologne, increasing the strength of the smell and making it last as long as possible... while colder areas of your body tend to dull the smell and make it disappear more rapidly. To achieve maximum results when wearing cologne, apply it to the following body parts : Wrists, neck, arm pits, and behind the ears. When using a cologne spray, do NOT spray behind your ears, spray it onto your hands and wipe it on... the last thing you want is to smell like you took a bath in your cologne. Another added bonus of putting cologne behind your ears is the fact that when you are in a club with loud music girls tend to talk into your ear so you can hear them... and when they do they will get a nice gentle whiff of your scent.

Choosing The Right Cologne

When shopping for a new cologne, never go by what smells good... you don't want a cologne that JUST smells good... you want a cologne that will trigger good memories. When a woman smells a scent that triggers an old, happy memory... she becomes instantly attracted to whatever is producing the scent... and your want that to be YOU, right? Sure you do, so keep that in mind when choosing a new cologne. The trick to selecting a cologne that does this effectively is to test them on yourself... if it triggers any type of good memory in your mind, then it should have a similar effect on most of the women that you try to pick up. To make your life a bit easier I have compiled a list of cologne at the bottom of this page that are the absolute BEST at doing this... so you don't even need to go "smell testing" :)

Cheap VS Expensive

Don't be fooled by brands like Calvin Klien and Polo Sport. If you wear any of these "regular brands" you will not be ANY better than the last guy who decided that a decent cologne was not worth the investment, plus most of the cheaper brands smell pretty bad... the last thing you want to do is turn women off simply because your cologne gave them a headache! Now you might automatically say "I can't afford that!" when you hear a name like Armani or Versace... but I can assure you that their cologne is quite cheap compared to most of their other products, and spending $30 on a REALLY good bottle of designer fragrance at an online perfume or cologne store instead of wasting $20 on a cheap bottle is definitely worth it when people constantly tell you how good you smell!